Pretty in Puglia Part I: My Masseria Moment
I’m not sure when I first heard of Puglia (Apulia on a map). It was probably a few years ago. And while not completely obscure, it definitely doesn’t get the attention (and the crowds) of Campania (Positano), Sicily, or Tuscany. I’d been quietly keeping tabs on this little corner of Europe—the heel of the boot—for a while, with a few scribbled notes and ideas on the back of an envelope.
If you read my Rome blog, you’ll know I planned this trip in under a week. But once you experience Puglia—the rustic landscape, gentle rhythm of life, the warmth of its people—you’ll understand why that’s more than enough time. The Pugliese are unbothered, they’re easy going, and they’re unimpressed by fancy things - at least according to the owner of the masseria where we stayed - more on that later.
First: A brief history Pulia and Salento (the peninsula representing the actual “heel” part of the boot) have deep humble roots—economically underdeveloped compared to the industrialized north. Historically, its economy relied heavily on agriculture, especially olives, wheat, and wine, with little infrastructure and investment. It was ruled for centuries by feuding foreign powers, from the Greeks and Romans to the Spanish and Bourbons (who did leave some beautiful art & architecture), pillaging resources without reinvesting in the local population. After Italian unification in the 19th century, Puglia remained marginalized and largely forgotten, prompting waves of emigration. In recent decades, however, it has begun to revitalize, attracting attention for its raw beauty, culture, and cuisine.
A few price points for reference - exchange rate was ~ $1 USD = €0.85
Train - €65.90 pp each way = €131.80 - we bought 1st Classe tickets each way; Pro Tip: pay the €2 for seat selection during peak travel times
Rental Car - Total trip was 6 days including prepaid gas $401.76 (USD) (Economy car, Sixt Rental Car at Bari Central Station)
Accommodations - this part - Masseria il Frantoio €428 - 2 nights B&B
Sidenote: We spent time along the Adriatic coast in Polignano al Mare/Monopoli, down Salento in Lecce and also stayed a night in Matera during our trip. Matera is often grouped with Puglia because of its proximity, but it’s actually in the neighboring region of Basilicata. I’ll dive into all these areas in different posts.
Getting around: Bari is the largest city in Puglia, with Brindisi coming in next. You can fly to either from Rome using local carriers—usually quick and inexpensive—but I opted for the train (always my preference). It’s about a four-hour ride, scenic and low-stress, offering a relaxing way to take in the Italian countryside. Time-wise, it’s comparable to flying when you factor in airport logistics, but the experience is far more enjoyable. Long-distance trains in Italy are generally quite comfortable, with restrooms, a café car, and outlets for your devices. Once in Bari, I picked up a rental car just next door to the train station (it’s common to have rental cars next to train stations throughout Europe).
Puglia is vast and train service can be limited once you get outside the city. The best way to get around is by car, and I recommend renting the smallest one you can fit in. In town, the roads are narrow and the parking spots are tight. Here’s (roughly) the full route we took and distances between the stops (future posts coming):
Bari to Polignano a Mare - about :30min
Polignano a Mare to Matera - about 1h20min
Matera to Alberobello - about 1h
Alberobello to Masseria il Frantoio - about :30min
Ostuni to Lecce - 1hr
Lecce to Monopoli - 1h15min
Monopoli to Bari - :30min
Driving in Italy is… overcaffienated. Speed limits seem to change constantly—and not always with much warning. Drivers tend to be assertive (read: they’ll flash their lights, change lanes often, and zip around like they’ve done this a thousand times… because they have). But don’t panic—this is just the highway.
In towns and cities, things shift a bit. First rule: do not drive in ZTL zones (Zona a Traffico Limitato). These are restricted areas—usually around historic centers—that are camera-monitored, and unauthorized vehicles will get fined (even rental cars). You’ll often see signs, but they can be easy to miss, so it’s best to plan ahead.
We had no trouble finding public parking, but we did map out spots ahead of time. Blue lines mean paid parking (often at a machine, usually accepts cards), white lines are typically free, and yellow lines are reserved (usually for residents or special permits). Private parking lots—more common near beaches or in towns like Alberobello and Ostuni—often expect cash, so have a few euros handy just in case.
And unless you’re a local with a permit, avoid driving into areas marked “Centro Storico.” That’s the old town, and while charming to walk, it’s not meant for cars.
For this trip, we didn’t make it south of Lecce—and while I hadn’t planned to go deeper into the Salento region, I found myself wanting more.
My favorite part was our stay at a masseria, a traditional Italian working farm tucked into the Puglian countryside
These have become a more popular in recent years (though there are still only a handful across the region), and while they vary in amenities, they tend to be simple, solid, and full of charm. Many have been converted into boutique stays, often with gardens, homegrown food, and a quiet atmosphere perfect for unwinding between beach days and town visits. We stayed at Masseria il Frantoio, known locally for its 2,000 year old olive trees and its Michelin-rated al fresco dinner, it’s location is central - close to Ostuni, beaches, and an hour from Lecce. It feels unfussy, unspoiled, and special like you feel when you discover a secret no one else knows. I always know I’ve found a great spot when we’re the only ones speaking English.
The property was purchased in the early ’90s by the current owners, the Balestrazzi family, who spent a decade carefully restoring it before welcoming any guests. Their mission was to revive the land—especially the centuries-old olive trees, many of which were in distress—and bring the buildings and farm back into working condition (it had been in the same family for 500 years prior). Beneath the original main structure, there’s a small museum showcasing beautifully restored traditional machinery where the olive oil was once produced. Recipes passed down by families who once lived on the property have been preserved and perfected, and now anchor the restaurant’s seasonal menu—one of the reasons for its Michelin recognition. The masseria’s organic olive oil is ranked among the best in Italy and can be shipped worldwide. They’ve even created an olive tree adoption program, allowing guests to support the ongoing conservation of the estate’s groves. There are vinyl records from the family’s personal collection, handwritten guest ledgers, and artifacts passed down through generations—all thoughtfully arranged around the main farmhouse. As you wander the property, it’s clear this isn’t a business; it’s about people, history, and connection.
Twice a week, an hour before dinner, a local Puglian winemaker hosts a tasting by the pool among the olive trees —an easygoing, generous pour that’s followed by a property tour. These wines come from small, often family-run producers, and while they’re extraordinary (and only about €12 a bottle in Italy), you won’t find them in the U.S.—not because they aren’t worthy, but because (according to our host) most only bottle around 100,000 per variety a year, which simply isn’t enough for export. During our visit, the family from Miali Vineyards shared the story behind his rosé, uniquely made from a single grape variety (according to him - the only one on earth - a source of deep pride!) thanks to the Itria Valley’s one-of-a-kind microclimate. Mr. Balestrazzi shared a few words at the tasting (mostly in Italian, a few in English for us), expressing his passion for preserving the history and roots of Puglia in a way that remains authentic to its people.
Later that evening, the courtyard transformed into a fairytale dining experience, with four- and eight-course menus offered to guests and the public. We (inadvertently) chose the four-course option for €55 (€65 with the wine tasting), and as expected, everything was fresh, local, and beautifully balanced. We thought we had signed up for the eight-course dinner and were genuinely relieved to find out (only at the end) it was the four (what a relief, it was a lot of food and it was late for us!). Dinner started at 8:30pm (as is customary) and wrapped up around 10:30pm.
We stayed in the main farmhouse in a Classic Room, including a full breakfast. Rooms are spread between the main farmhouse and a few in the adjacent building, a former stable that’s been thoughtfully converted into guest accommodations. There are several room types, but all share the same laid-back, rustic charm. If you need something, you can wander around and someone will be happy to help but it’s not the kind of place where the staff are hovering, anticipating your every whim.
The property is peaceful and easy to settle into. The staff float around and are available to share their knowledge of olive oil and local wine with informal tastings in the farmhouse, and there’s plenty of space to occupy. Leone works in the office during the day, and she’ll coordinate shipments of olive oil and wine back home to the USA - just don’t be surprised when the cost of shipping is more than the cost of the bottles you’re shipping back. You can stroll through the olive groves, swing under the trees, or meander through citrus-scented gardens during the day. It’s the kind of place where a full day can slip by without you noticing.
I remember lying by the pool, thinking it felt like a scene from a Sofia Coppola indie film nominated at Cannes—main character energy, walking barefoot through olive groves in the hot, dry Italian sun…
il dolce far niente
(the sweetness of doing nothing)
John’s main character energy
If you’re feeling recharged and ready to switch up the vibe, here are a few ideas for nearby meanders:
Beach Day- (:15min-30min) Lido Stella Beach €5 cash parking, casual beach club; Lido Bosco Verde - pre-book loungers during peak summer times; Lido Morelli - near the nature reserve, more rustic; Cala di Rosamarina – Lido Baiamalva - more chic and upscale, full day commitment w/aperitivo & sunset; Lido Bizzarro - Pilone Beach, family run and local.
Ostuni - (:10min) La Città Bianca (the White City) dates back to pre-Roman times and was later rebuilt by the Greeks after being destroyed by Hannibal. During the Middle Ages, it flourished under various rulers, becoming a fortified hill town with a striking whitewashed appearance that endures today. This is a must see, and I’ll share more in a later post.
Locorotondo/Martina Franca/Cisternino - (:30min to 1hr) often overlooked for its popular big sister Alberobello, these three villages offer a more authentic and less touristy experience than Alberobello, with charming historic centers, whitewashed alleys, and local life that still feels lived-in. While Alberobello is known for its iconic trulli, these nearby towns let you enjoy similar architecture without the crowds—plus, they’re perfect for slow wandering, long lunches, and soaking up everyday Puglian life.
Masserias in Puglia that I researched and some that were recommended:
Masseria Moroseta - near Ostuni - eco-conscious farmhouse set in olive groves
Masseria Cervarolo - near Ostuni - beautifully restored 16th-century estate with trulli, family-run hospitality, and local cuisine
Masseria Montenapoleone - halfway between Ostuni & Monopoli - stylish, character-filled farm stay surrounded by olive plains, with farm‑to‑table cuisine and design touches
Masseria Potenti - near Manduria & Ionian Sea (other side of the peninsula) - rustic‑chic 16th-century estate with vineyards, olive groves, handmade cuisine and a peaceful countryside vibe
If you have ever dreamed of staying in an Italian farmhouse, this is your sign ~
On deck for Puglia blogs: Matera / Ostuni & Lecce / Polignano al Mare & Monopoli!
-m